And now the pièce de résistance (self-judged!) so far: Omnibus Life in London (1859) by William Maw Egley
Egley conveys the claustrophobia of the inside of an omnibus (a horse-drawn carriage which travelled along a fixed route). All levels of society, from the old country woman with her piles of baggage to the city clerk with his cane, were forced to share a small compartment. Egley painted the carriage in a coachbuilder’s yard and posed models in a makeshift ‘carriage’ made from boxes and planks in his back garden in Paddington. The Illustrated London News said ‘the stern and trying incidents’ would be ‘recognized by thousands of weary wayfarers through the streets of London.’ {From the display caption in The Tate
https://www.tate.org.uk/servlet/ViewWork?cgroupid=999999961&workid=4094 }
Egley wrote a catalogue of his pictures (now in the Victoria & Albert Museum), in which he notes down the clothing of this girl in great detail:
a fashionable dressed little girl of twelve, wearing a straw hat with feathers and ribbons, the hair in long, dark ringlets: a grey jacket, and light, striped silk dress, with a short skirt displaying her long, white trousers trimmed with needlework, and black kid boots with brilliant patent leather toes and high heels.
His description stresses the girl's needlework trousers and boots, which are 'displayed'--but only to the viewer of the painting, since the other occupants of the omnibus (including the man in the top hat, who appears to be gazing at her) would not be able to see them. As the art historian Susan Casteras has noted, Egley had a curious obsession with his wife's clothes, and particularly with her footwear, stockings and lace-trimmed trousers, worn under her petticoats. This is evident from both repeated entries in his diary (which is also in the Victoria & Albert Museum), and his catalogue of pictures, compiled in 1903 from earlier records. When painting The Talking Oak in 1856, Egley obviously took particular interest in the veiled trousers just visible at the bottom of the figure's skirt, a detail which, as Casteras has pointed out, is hardly noticeable to the modern viewer.
Egley was particularly obsessed by shiny patent leather shoes, high heels, tight shoes, and long trousers which fell across the instep. In his catalogue, his mention of such details starts with descriptions of portraits of young girls in the 1840s and is gradually transferred to paintings and drawings of his wife. He also records, in his diary, many outings to buy her footwear which sounds painfully uncomfortable--for example, Sunday, November 12, 1854:
My dear little girl went out this morning in a pair of quite new black cashmere boots with brilliant glittering enamel toes. They are very small and fit so tight that she can scarcely bend her pretty feet, but it only serves to show off the elegance of their form in a most fascinating manner and add to the grace of her walk. They looked sweetly pretty with her long brilliant white trousers (quite plain) reaching to her instep.
On other occasions he bought her boots with high military heels, and recorded that 'she said she liked to feel the straps [of the trousers] tight under her pretty feet.'
This shows aspects of Victorian sexuality which are well-known from other sources--an interest in young girls or childlike women, and a fetishistic focus on details of clothing in an age when the body was generally well covered up. It has been argued that the invention of the crinoline, which swung from side to side, revealing ankles, petticoats, and footwear, stimulated the development of foot and shoe fetishism in this period, and Egley's diary certainly seems to provide lots of supporting evidence for this hypothesis. There is also a consumerist desire to see his wife in items that he has bought for her, and an emphasis on characteristics which emphasised their newness, such as the sparkling brilliance of shoes or white trousers. What is interesting is that there is very little difference between the way he describes his wife's clothing, in his diary, and the way he describes that of the figures in his paintings, in his catalogue of works. In both cases, the descriptions are obsessively detailed and repetitive. Obviously, Egley was exceptional, but his case does raise interesting questions about the depiction of female costume in mid-nineteenth century painting, and in particular, the emphasis on the feet and legs and on sensuous materials such as silk.
In both Omnibus Life in London and Work, a young girl occupies an important role in the composition--the girl in Brown's painting is more obviously erotic to us, perhaps, with her bare neck and shoulders, but Egley's well-dressed girl is seen to have a similar function when looked at in the light of his writings. This figure is prominently placed in the foreground, where such details could be voyeuristically examined. Further crowd scenes by Frith, Ramsgate Sands and The Railway Station, also have young girls in prominent foreground positions. One lifts her skirt to expose bare legs, while the other lifts her skirt to display lace trousers and petticoat. In each case, the gesture is justified by the context--bathing in the sea and travelling in full skirts both necessitated exposure--and to our eyes these figures are innocent enough; but they may also have had a particular type of charm for male viewers of the 1850s and 1860s. There is no evidence that Frith shared Egley's peculiar predilections, but the two men were on friendly terms with one another. Once you start to look for them, these young girls can be found in a number of paintings of the Victorian crowd in this period. {from the Science Museum site
https://www.fathom.com/course/10701040/session4.html } [Thought this was a fascinating bit of "social" history and also reminded me of
post-476, Ed]