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Oxford Dictionary of Modern Design: [h=2]Liberty & Co[/h]
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(established 1875) Liberty & Co. of Regent Street, London, has been a well-known name in fashionable retailing for more than 125 years, with a particularly distinguished place in the history of design in the later 19th and early 20th centuries. Of particular note was its role in relation to the
Aesthetic Movement and
Art Nouveau, often known as Stile Liberty in Italy. Arthur Lazenby Liberty (1843-1917), the firm's founder, became involved with the world of London retailing at the firm of Farmer & Rogers' Regent Street emporium in 1862, the year in which London's second major international exhibition was held in South Kensington. A prominent feature of this exhibition was the display of Japanese art and design, both attracting considerable critical comment and exerting a powerful influence on designers, architects, and artists. Farmer & Rogers purchased a number of oriental artefacts from the exhibition, putting them on sale in its Oriental Warehouse, in which Liberty was given a managerial role in 1864. Capitalizing on the rapidly growing interest in such exotic goods in artistic circles, Liberty opened his own shop in Regent Street opposite Farmer & Rogers, importing decorative artefacts, silks, and wallpapers from India, Indochina, Persia, as well as Japan and other countries. A Furnishing and Decorative Studio was set up in 1883, reflecting fashionable interest in ‘art industries’ and the Aesthetic Movement. The costume department, established under the direction of E. W.
Godwin in 1884, also promoted fashionable dress and sought to challenge the pre-eminence of Paris. Liberty's exhibited aesthetic clothing at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris, opening ‘Maison Liberty’ for the sale of clothes and fabrics in the centre of the city in the following year. It proved successful and lasted until 1932 when unfavourable trade tariffs were introduced. In the later 19th century Liberty's commissioned many other leading designers associated with the
Arts and Crafts Movement including C. F. A.
Voysey, Hugh
Baillie Scott, Lindsay Butterfield, and Arthur Silver for work across a wide range of media. In the
early years of the 20th century the company established its own range of silverware designs under the name Liberty & Co. (Cymric) Ltd., soon followed by its Tudric pewter range. Celtic decorative motifs were an important source of inspiration for designers such as Archibald Knox and Rex Silver, although they remained anonymous and their work marketed under the Liberty name.