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Passages, Alleyways Gulletts and Snickets of Old Brum

Thanks Phil. I thought for one moment that perhaps Nurse had taken his viewing privileges off him for not taking his medicines...?

And a rather nice tale about another old favourite, in fact the very first entry on this Thread, and the one that prompted it's idea for me...Union Passage, which housed the Cabin, a regular haunt of mine when I'd just started work in 1960, and was coming home from Tech on the bus that stopped outside Rackhams...on the way down to the 53 or 54 in Carrs Lane to get home. This little gem of a boozer, with its enormouus circular copper Bar top and snug seating, tucked down a fascinating Alleyway, off another Alleyway, was always a fatal attraction...something akin to a Dickensian pub to my immature mind then...

Consider what Showell wrote about the Passage in 1880s...

Union Passage.jpg

Interesting mention of the Old Bear Yard and of ‘Bear baiting’ in the mid 1800s there, and the specific nomination of the ‘Black Country’ boys as the main perps. Never heard of Old Bear Yard, and can't find any reference on available maps I have?

Funnily enough, in Edwards’ account of The Woolpack, and no doubt because of the proximity of the Moor Street Public Office next door circa 1795, he cites a character George Redfern, evidently one if Birmingham’s finest “peace officers”, and his brave “runners” or “terrors to evil doers” in messrs Palmer, Spittle, Hall and Wesson; and a tale he’d just heard of “Bull Baiting” in the Woolpack snug circa 1825.

George had evidently got word from his Staffordshire counterparts that on a certain day, they had heard that a bull was to be ‘baited’ at Nineveh, in the parish of Handsworth. They thought that when they ‘disturbed’ the perps, they would run off and bring the bull back over the boundary to Brum, and thus into his jurisdiction, and that if he was well supported, and fancied an arrest, he might then “secure the principals”. And thus it transpired that when the Staffs runners hit the event, the stake to which the bull was fastened, was drawn, and the whole party, Bull, dogs, and all the other “brutes’ – crossed the County border, and proceeded to Lodge Road and Soho Pool. It was there they thought it would be safe, so the stake was driven in, the bull tethered, a ring formed, spectators admitted after payment, and bets were made.

The rules were simple, but not sanctioned by the RSPCA - anyone was permitted to let his dog have twelve runs at the bull on payment of six pence. If the dog succeeded to "pin the bull", that is gripping him by the nose so that he could not be shaken off, the dog won half a crown (presumably to spend however he fancied?)... If however, the bull succeeded in disembowelling the dog, or killing it, the owner lost the dog and his sixpence without redress.

Well evidently, this little game was going on with considerable vigour when George and his merry men arrived on the scene. “as soon as they seed we a coming” said the witness, the majority legged it swiftly…

The constables managed, however to secure two of the “berrods” (a corruption of the word “Bear ward” - a keeper of Bear), as well as the Bull itself. They duly removed the stake, bull, and other “properties’ to the stable of The Woolpack. The captive “berrods” who were known as “Bag O’Razzors” and “Black Country Charlie”, then “enjoyed a day or two in the jail at Moor Street, from which they were ultimately allowed to depart by the magistrate Mr Richard Spooner on the payment of £5 and £2 respectively, and being bound over not to repeat the offence without considerable penalty. “ Unfortunately, they still had the bull in custody “in durance vile”, and as he couldn’t be fined, he was sold to get some form of redress for the trouble he caused…THAT was allegedly the end of bull and bear baiting in the City…fat chance….

Well evidently, this little game was going on with considerable vigour when George and his merry men arrived on the scene. “As soon as they seed we a coming” said the witness, the majority ran off swiftly…

The constables managed, however, to secure two of the “berrods” (a corruption of the word “Bear ward” - a keeper of Bear), as well as the Bull itself. They then duly removed the stake, bull, and other “properties' to the stable of The Woolpack. The two captive “berrods” who were rather quaintly known as “Bag O’Razzors” and “Black Country Charlie”, then “enjoyed a day or two in the jail at Moor Street, from which they were ultimately allowed to depart by the magistrate Mr Richard Spooner on the payment of £5 and £2 respectively, and being bound over not to repeat the offence without considerable penalty".

Unfortunately, they still had the bull in custody “in durance vile”, and as he couldn’t be fined, he was sold to get some form of redress for the trouble he'd caused… and THAT was allegedly the end of bull and bear baiting in the City…

Fat chance….


Union Passage Map 1889.jpg
Map 1889


Union Passage 1911.jpg
Union Passage showing The Cabin signed on the left...
 
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I always wondered as a lad why "Ladywood" was so named in such a densely populated area, now I know, I also drank sometimes in the "Cabin" and remember it fondly.
Paul
 
I assume it got the name the same way as the Ladywood south of Droitwich (Salwarpe Parish) where my Grandfather was born - The Wood of the Lady [of the manor] perhaps. The place names may seem incongruous to us today but would have been accepted when it was all green fields.

Bill Dargue's site has an explanantion and also that is is first mentioned in 1552
 
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I always remember my Dad telling me about "Holy-wood" somewhere in Brum Bernie, he said it meant 'HOLY WELL' from a time when pilgrims would visit the holy water sights now I know possibly pre dating the Christian era by many thousands of years.
paul
 
Yes would he have been referring to what is now Hollywood just South of Birmingham?
 
...and as a corollary to the adventures of George Redfern, Brum's Chief constable, McKenna tells of a tale when a Mr Edward Bingley was the landlord of the White Swan at No1 CHURCH STREET, the extension of Cornwall Street in the early 1800s. George arrested him and two confederates for "coining' (forgery to you and me), and they were all later hanged for their crime at Warwick assizes....rumour has it that he later married Bingley's widow and took over the tenancy of the Pub... nice one George!

The WHITE Swan was on the corner of Church Street and Great Charles Street, then rebuilt, but was gone by 1892 in the Improvement scheme that widened CHURCH STREET...more of that street later...
 
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This 1832 map may be of interest as it appears to show Bear Yard (top right hand underlined in red) coming off Union Street right on the edge.

Another great story, Dennis, thanks for sharing it.
 

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A graphic account of bear baiting Dennis. Never really understood what it was.Isn't that where the Bull Ring got it's name? I think there was a more permanent ring in the ground to which the bull was tied. Grotesque way to treat animals. Viv.
 
A graphic account of bear baiting Dennis. Never really understood what it was.Isn't that where the Bull Ring got it's name? I think there was a more permanent ring in the ground to which the bull was tied. Grotesque way to treat animals. Viv.

Thank you so much Viv, a new one on me and a great find...may I ask the origin of that Map of 1832? Is it online anywhere? There is a deal of other fascinating stuff therein?
 
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Thanks mike, a great map showing the location of the Lady Well nicely, as well as Bear Yard. Now for something on Church Street and Bread Street, two other old streets that have been featured on here before...but a little more spice to savour..

Red Lion  Church St 1886.jpg

The Red Lion in CHURCH STREET was built c1775. Its reputation began with the arrival of a Mr Litchfield in 1780. He came from the ‘Three Crowns’ in Deritend, and over the next hundred year, under the continuous management of this one family and it’s many branches through marraige, it prospered and became quite famous.

In 1883, as part of the Improvement Scheme for the town, the authorities decided that the house should be rebuilt ‘to meet the requirements of a better class of business on the existing, or such larger area as the justices may approve’, consequently the houses either side, in Church Street and Bread Street were demolished, and the Red Lion was extended. Bread Street was later redeveloped and became an extension of Cornwall Street.

Red Lion  Church street.jpg

In its latter years circa 1890 the tavern became something of a respite for Sheffield businessmen of note – there to do much trade with Birmingham’s infamous men of iron and steel - The Jessops, Rodgers, Unwins, and Firths included, plus wives of course...
As usual the table fayre was the big attraction, and Edwards waxed lyrical about them: “Under the supervision of the landlady Mrs Birch, and her husband, they established a ‘daily ordinary’ at the Red Lion, which has been, from their day to the present, a most popular and pleasant dining place for ‘”well to do” people, including professional, mercantile and manufacturing professionals. He goes on “these dinners have been served daily, without intermission, until the present day, and still retain their ancient character for respectability and substantial comfort: and notwithstanding the march of intellect, and the glare and glitter of modern ‘Restaurants’ and ‘Dining Halls’, there are few places in the town where a quiet home-like dinner is to be had in a more satisfactory manner, than in the old-fashioned dining room at the Red Lion, Church Street”. Sounds like a Vintage Inn review. Better ring Trip Advisor without delay…

The British Association for the Advancement of Science, who met annually in various big Cities in England and Scotland, was founded there in 1831, and the Tavern became their main Headquarters some years after, when a young group of scientists, fed up with silly London and Glasgow prices, formed a breakaway group. The group was led by a geologist Edward Forbes, and this newly established group of radicals called themselves the Red Lions in their favourite watering hole's honour, and used growls and roars and much waggling of tail coats to approve or disapprove points in meetings and after-dinner discussions. Sounds like a lot of Bowls club dinners to me…but…read on…A true bunch of carnivores with leonine tendencies, always ready for huge dinners, and much singing.

Forbes himself, favoured a uniform of a dyed red lion skin, and roared from under the lion’s head to the delight of his followers after grace was said. So much was enjoyed by the incumbents that other Red Lion Societies sprang up in London, Edinburgh and Glasgow. Their crest was naturally a red lion with a long pipe in one paw, and a foaming tankard in the other, with the legend “feeding hour of the carnivorea six o’clock precisely”.

Red Lion logo.jpg


In the mid 1800s the Red Lion concept became fearsomely popular, breaking down the pompous gravity which some supposed to be inseparable from scientific pursuits, and even when the British Geology had conferred upon him the highest honours it had to bestow, he continued to roar and generally misbehave as per usual… I was a scientist for 50 years or more, and can testify that these ideals, if not ALL his customs, were exhibited with much hilarity and vigour in Scientific and Medical Meetings I attended all over the world…more especially when the wine flowed freely…

The Glasgow Branch was formed in 1844, and in 1849 when they met gain in Birmingham, Forbes, by this time living in Dorset, once more turned up in spite of cost (he was not a rich man) to the delight of his followers, and for this tenth anniversary, a song was sung thus to honour the Town:

IRON poem.jpg

Before they met again in Brum, Forbes was dead, but the ancient spirit of the club survived, and the meetings were as ebullient and crowded as ever


....continued next clip..
 
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At one of the meetings there was a proposal by the British Association grandees, to introduce the metric and decimal systems into use in England, and on the next evening, a Professor Rankin sang this song amidst violent flapping of coat tails and intense growls of satisfaction from the lions…

Two foot Rule song.jpg

So anti-EU decimalisation protocol was rife even in those far off days then...

The Society is still going strong, but has changed quite a lot I suspect. Little, if anything at all, is mentioned of these tales in their history on the current BAAS Websites, to back up these tales from Eliezer Edwards, but of their veracity, there is no doubt.

In any event, it is a great moment of Brum’s History, that a common old Birmingham tavern gave the world the voice of protest, and a more humanising approach to science. The thought of England’s finest sons wagging their tails and roaring their heads off in the Red Lion will live with me forever…

The Red Lion closed in 1898. A couple of years later a second pub of the same name was built on the other corner. This new house was designed by Arthur Hamblin, is still there, and is a delight of red brick, stained glass, and terracotta. It changed it's name from the Red Lion to THE OLD ROYAL in 1964, when the Old Royal Hotel
in Temple Row was demolished, and the name transferred.



Edward Forbes portrait

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edward_Forbes


Red Lion  Old Royal   Church Street   .jpg Old Royal  Church St.jpg
The Old Royal
 
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I used to love going to The Old Royal. Is it now Purnells or something?
Thanks for more brilliant info Dennis.
 
Sorry Dennis, I meant to include the link for the map showing Bear Yard but I forgot - I see that Mikejee has posted it so thanks to him for that.

By the way, I'm Angela!
 
Sorry Dennis, I meant to include the link for the map showing Bear Yard but I forgot - I see that Mikejee has posted it so thanks to him for that.

By the way, I'm Angela!

Ah yes, you see my problem? Alzheimers with a touch of senility and natural barmpottyness....I am so sorry. I will up the dose of Wincarnis and soldier on...cheers Angela...your map made MY day at least...thanks again.
 
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An excuse to post a few old and new pics of Stephensons Place, the little famous roadway that backs the Midland Hotel, and once fronted the impressive Queen's Hotel outside New Street Station...presumably named after the Railway engineer and pioneer of steam engines George Stephenson?


New St  Queens Hotel   1925.jpgNew St  Queens Hotel.jpg New St  Queens Hotel    1956.jpg New St Queens Hotel 2 Stephensons Place  1911.jpg New St  Queens Hotel  now 2010.jpg
 
Thanks very much for posting the photos of The Queen's Hotel and New Street Station, Dennis. Takes me down memory lane. The third and fourth photograph are how I remember the old area most. The arches were the entrance to my office in New Street Station, the year 1957. A few steps away was the lovely old Queen's Hotel which was always good for a quick look around in the foyer to see what was going on. I left Brum for a couple of years in 1963 and when I returned everything had changed i.e. demolished along with the amazing Exchange Building in Stephenson Place. The replacements are worse than blah imho but I still have happy memories of the whole area.
 
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You don't need an excuse Dennis - post away!
As Jennyann says, the Queens Hotel was a lovely building, I had drinks in there quite a few times in the late 50s. Happy memories.
 
Thank you so much Viv, a new one on me and a great find...may I ask the origin of that Map of 1832? Is it online anywhere? There is a deal of other fascinating stuff therein?

Hi Dennis. Tracked down the source of the story about the ring to which bulls were tethered for baiting. It was from a short video that Jayell posted on the "18th Century Birmingham" thread -
https://birminghamhistory.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=38638

The bulls were tethered to the ring at the top of Corn Cheaping and baited by dogs. The meat was claimed to be tastier having gone through this horrific practice. Then the bulls were slaughtered. The video is about Bernard Sleigh's 1923 three dimensional, aerial, picture map. It was his interpretation of 18th century Birmingham. Viv.
 
Cheers Viv, most appreciated.

A few weeks ago, I think it was carolina who found a new kid on the block. JOHN BALL - a most self-effacing Winson Green lad, who took a few photos of Birmingham City Centre in the early 60s, knowing the City was about to be irrevocably changed, and posted them on his brilliant Blog, and "hoped we liked them". Considering they are on a par with those of Phylis Nicklin, Keith Berry, Mikejee, and Ray Griffiths, I should jolly well cocoa! And as some of them show the Alleyways and Backstreets of Brum, so I thought they would make a nice end piece for this tired old Thread. Hope so, anyway...enjoy..

Here are five from around the back of the General Hospital and thereabouts...some have appeared on here, some haven't...


Bailey Street  Lancaster St Jnc.jpg
Bailey Street, from Lancaster Place looking up to Loveday St


Bath Street.jpg
Bath Street, showing the towers of St Chads


Lench Street.jpg
Lench Street, showing the Brunswick pub


Price Street.jpg
Price Street


Vesey Street Loveday St.jpg
Vesey Street, looking down from Loveday Street
 
Dennis when I first saw John's site and the passages etc I did think about you (not just because we have the same surname) and thought there were probably a few you might not have seen and I guess I was right. Carol
 
Love the John Ball photos Dennis. Shows how important it is to record these changes even over a relatively short space of time. We can still pick out one or two landmarks, so thankfully not all was obliterated. It struck me how densely occupied these roads were, added to which most of them hid a further mass of activity in the alleyways leading off them, giving access to courts or workshops at the rear of buildings. What an enormous rabbit warren of buildings Birmingham once was. Viv.
 
While rummaging around on the internet, came across this Newman College list of streets, lanes etc in the 1700s. A few I don't recognise such as Buckle Row, Button Alley, Dock Alley and Leafe Lane. I like 'Stafford Street and Ditch'!! Viv.

yquzusaj.jpg
 
Thanks Viv, some rather quaint and long forgotten Streets and Alleys there. I’ve taken a few and marked them on the 1785 map of Brum in yellow, if a little faint. I also incude a 1731 Map showing the Ditch (bottom right) a little clearer. Of course the Ditch is an old favourite on here, as it became The GULLETT in later years.
Here are the desciptions and derivations of the old streets marked on the 1785 Map…

BUCKLE ROW - Off The Ditch, which ran parallel to Stafford Street, it linked Coleshill Street and Lichfield Street. The Row’s site is marked on Westley’s Map of 1731 as ‘land for building’. It first appears on Bradford’s 1750 Plan, and its name probably commemorates a small buckle manufactory situated there in the early 18[SUP]th[/SUP] century.

BUTTON ALLEY - Showells Dictionary has it as an early name for Masshouse Lane, but on the map it can be seen to run off Masshouse Lane, and link to to Chapel Street, and the name presumably highlighted what was going on there at that time.

THE BUTTS - Off Stafford Street, orinally called BUTTS LANE, and by 1770 was Tanter’s Butts or Tanter Street, Tanter being the landowner, and finally becoming RYDER STREET.

FARMER STREET - On the the former Weaman Estate, Farmer Street took its name from from a local resident, who also gave his name to Farmer’s Bridge in Summer Row. It was later renamed SAND STREET and linked Weaman and Whittall Street.

JENNING STREET – is now Fox Street.

JOHN STREET - Originally known as St Johns Street, it was situated in what is now that section of Newton Street between Dale End, and Corporation Street. John Street was built to John Pemberton’s design, and it was he who gave the street its original name.

LEEK STREET - Linked Coleshill Street and St Bartholomews Street (later Bartholomew Row).

PITT STREET - named after Prime Minister Pitt and a local man. The street is shown on Bradford’s 1750 Plan just off Coleshill Street. By 1781 it had been renamed CROSS STREET or Old Cross Street



1785 Map marked.jpgView attachment 83188 Birmingham Map  1731.jpg
 
And five more from the great John Ball collection. All orignal, never been seen before shots...and firstly showing my all-time favourite watering hole...all taken early 60s...


Cabin  Union Passage.jpg
THE CABIN in Union Passage

Fore Street.jpg
Fore Street, off Corporation Street looking up to...

Cannon Street Passage.jpg
Cannon Street Passage, leading up to Needless Alley

Cannon Street.jpg
Cannon Street

Castle Street.jpg
Castle Street, down past M&S..
 
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